Abraham’s Pool, Abraham’s Cave + the Şanlıurfa Market

We are not human beings having a spiritual experience. We are spiritual beings having a human experience. - Pierre Teilhard de Chardin

Our hotel was located directly across from the Castle of Urfa and the Sacred Pools. Mornings begin near dawn with the call to prayer echoing across the city, haunting voices on loudspeakers mounted throughout send the call between buildings and into cracks and crevices. There is no doubt what the guiding force is, particularly in such a sacred place.

I grew up without religion as the daughter of a former Catholic. While I’ve always developed my own sense of spirituality, I’ve never felt called to join any certain organized religion. Curiosity at a younger age led me to read a fair share of different religious texts and excerpts and as part of an advanced literature program, we read the Bible front to back so we could understand literary references that rely heavily on religion. In my mind Noah, Abraham, Rachel, Jacob, Isaac - these figures belonged nestled in the worn pages of old books written and rewritten in ancient times. Here, in Şanlıurfa, it seems like just the other day these real people experienced tragedies and joys, triumphs and heartache here in these bustling neighborhoods. There’s a familiarity and closeness the people here have with these figures - as if it’s their wives second cousins father’s neighbor. And it happened not that long ago. I marvel as the fictional characters in my mind take shape in how others hold them tightly in their mind’s eye.

The Pool of Abraham (Balıklıgöl) and Abraham's Cave

Historically, Şanlıurfa has been a crossroad of civilizations, and Abraham’s legacy ties the city to the three major monotheistic religions: Islam, Christianity, and Judaism. The cave and pools have become important pilgrimage sites, especially in Islamic culture, where Abraham is revered as one of the great prophets. The nearby Halil-ur Rahman Mosque, built in the 12th century, adds to the spiritual atmosphere of the area. The pool, framed by Ottoman architecture, creates a serene landscape where visitors can contemplate the connection between faith and history. Standing near the cave and pools, one can sense the continuity of history, where stories of divine intervention and faith are immortalized in the tranquil waters of Abraham’s Pool.

Simply put, Abraham is a big deal to a lot of folks. Abraham is a central figure in Islam, Christianity, and Judaism, often referred to as the "father of faith" for his foundational role in the development of monotheism. Christians, Muslims, and Jews make up about 56.3% of the world’s population and a visit to this holy site is a meeting ground for all three.

According to legend, this is where the Prophet Abraham (Ibrahim) was born and hidden from the tyrant King Nimrod, who sought to kill all male infants. Abraham grew up in secret and later defied Nimrod by rejecting idol worship, which led to the king ordering him to be thrown into a fire. However, God miraculously turned the fire into water and the burning logs into fish, creating the sacred pool that still exists today. The pool is filled with thousands of carp, which are considered holy, and harming them is believed to bring bad luck. The cave itself is a place of prayer and reflection, often visited by pilgrims seeking blessings and spiritual connection.

My Experience

As a white female American, I already stand out in this city in the south. Şanlıurfa is about 40km from the Syrian border and I am the only girl with light brown hair and blue eyes in town. I am a visitor and as such, I strongly believe in following local customs and that means I dress to fit any modesty requirements and expectations. This area, like many sacred areas, is one for modesty - a long skirt, a shirt, plus a wrap that covers both head and shoulders is appropriate. I am also an ambassador in a way - for women, for Americans, for girls with tattoos and light brown hair and light eyes who fell in love with a Turkish-American man - and I have an opportunity to be a thoughtful, curious, polite visitor.

The pool complex is beautiful and the park grounds are full of families picnicking, playing games and the usual array of stray cats and dogs. The fish dance among the pools, the smaller channels feeding into the main pool. We walk through the stunning black and white tiled arches marveling at the architecture. Near the center, we approach a man selling fish food - we take our small tray of pellets and feed the delighted carp. We watch the naughtiest cat in the world stalk the holy fish.

We enter the cave where Abraham was born and hidden separately - one side for women, one for men. I remove my shoes and cover my head and duck to enter. The eyes of the women inside dart to my face with curiosity. I can see them wondering what I am and what I am doing there. I wander the length of the cave, looking at the glowing water, absorbing the sound of women’s softly whispered prayers. A woman gets up and touches my arm. She wants me to pass her a large book from the shelf. She tugs on my skirt to let me know I can sit beside her and pray. I am out of my depth and touched by her kindness. She doesn’t know what I am or where I am from, but she wants to share her faith in a gentle way.

To The Market

I walk out into the blazing afternoon sun and find Z. I am quiet and contemplative and a bit confused. I wish people could glean the good from religion without the centuries of violence. I wish people could find solace in whatever faith soothes them without destroying the lives and homes of others. I wish people would reconsider any gods that require them to take the lives of others. I feel like I have unwound completely back in time.

The market near the pool complex is bustling. Like everywhere here there is no separation between religion and commerce and family and friends and everyone, everything, everywhere is together. We grab delicious roasted shaved chicken tucked inside warm flatbreads bursting with flavor and eat them as we wander. Knock off purses and sunglasses glint in the sunlight next to handcrafted treasures and dried peppers on large strands of rope. It seems that every single color is present here and artisans show their wares beside piles of what looks like garage sale junk. This market is a great one - gifts, little trinkets, spices, you won’t go home empty handed!

Conclusion

While I didn’t find Şanlıurfa to be the most beautiful of cities - the deep dive into religious history made it a unique stop worth experiencing. I would assume the more religious you are, the more of an impact this would hold. I felt honored to share in this space with so many other visitors and I could feel my mind stretching and shifting perspectives to fit so much new input. What was to me a story about a character named Abraham, is to others a deeply real and treasured memory passed generation to generation. Who am I to judge? Who am I to be right or wrong? And why can we not find a way after all these years to allow each other to worship who and how and when we want?

Stay tuned for the next post where we drive along the Syrian border and head to the Beehive Homes of Harran, visit Jacob’s Well where we get doused with water by an older man and finally arrive in the majestic city of Mardin!