“Travel far enough, you meet yourself.” ― David Mitchell, Cloud Atlas

The downside of living in a village on an island in the Aegean Sea is that we are quite a long way from anywhere else. The plus side is also that we are a long ways from anywhere else! We have two main ways to leave the island of Lesvos - by plane or by ferry boat and both depart from the major city of Mytilene, an hour drive from the house. The ferry from Mytilene to Ayvalik takes 60 minutes on the fast boat and 90 minutes on the standard boat, and ferries are a fantastic way to travel through the Aegean sea - something we definitely look forward to doing more in August! From there it’s a 40 minute taxi ride from the port town of Ayvalik to Balıkesir Koca Seyit Airport (EDO) to rent a car. You can rent them in Ayvalik proper but it’s almost always more money.

Ayvalik

Ayvalik is a fantastic destination for a few days' escape, offering great shopping, delicious restaurants, seaside views, and an ideal starting point for exploring Türkiye. Located on the western coast of the Aegean Sea, halfway between Izmir and Istanbul, Ayvalik bridges traditional Türkiye and the resort-like vibe of Bodrum, Izmir, and Antalya.

The town features a unique blend of Greek and Turkish architecture, reflecting its rich historical heritage. It's famous for its crystal-clear waters, picturesque old town, and narrow cobblestone streets lined with cafes, shops, and historic buildings. Ayvalik is also celebrated for its culinary delights, particularly its olive oil, seafood, and mezes. We didn’t stay this time, but when we do, we love Bacacan Otel for it’s great location, proximity to the ferry port and delicious breakfast!

Ayvalik to Ankara

This leg of the journey is well-trodden for us. Traveling from the seaside to Türkiye's capital takes you from a beachy atmosphere to highways lined with olive trees, farm stands selling mulberries and honey, cows meandering alongside apartment blocks, and rapidly transitioning to open farmland, rolling terrain, and forested hills. Massive monuments to Atatürk stand proudly beneath enormous Turkish flags along the way.

Driving in Türkiye can be aggressive, but the reward lies in the servis alanı (service areas) and road stops spaced along the seven-hour journey. We typically maintain a brisk pace, with family and work commitments awaiting us in Ankara. The servis alanı are like super gas station/shopping mall/food court hybrids, offering excellent service and food. You can find locally made cheese, a wide variety of olives, fun trinkets, and some of the best dried fruits and nuts you'll ever taste. For meals, these stops offer everything from decent to outstanding ready-made food (pro tip: read the Google reviews; the translations are absolutely hilarious)!

Our favorite place to stop is about halfway between Ayvalik and Ankara, on the twisty, mountainous roads outside of İnegöl. There are actually two great spots, so if you miss the first, definitely try the second (our new favorite). We used to stop at Boğaziçi for gözleme and tea, but we loved DeğirmenÇayır Restaurant this trip! Both offer a calm oasis from a long drive. Pulling off the highway, you find yourself seated at a picnic table riverside, with trees waving overhead in the wind and the smell of freshly cooked food confirming you've made a great choice. DeğirmenÇayır has a massive wood-fired stove and an extended menu, offering a full kahvaltı along with other items. The freshly baked bread, local yogurt, marinated olives, perfectly cured and cooked sucuk (spicy fermented pan-fried sausage), and the flakiest, most delicious gozleme (we love cheese!) you've ever had make it a perfect break in a long drive!

Ankara

Ankara, the capital of Türkiye, is a vibrant city known for its blend of modernity and rich history. As the political and administrative heart of the country, it houses key government buildings and foreign embassies. Notable landmarks include Anıtkabir, the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, and the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, which showcases artifacts from Türkiye’s ancient past. Ankara also boasts contemporary attractions such as the bustling Kızılay Square, numerous parks, and a thriving arts scene. The city’s strategic location and well-developed infrastructure make it an important hub for education, culture, and commerce in Türkiye.

My favorite spot in Ankara is the Ankara Kalesi. Its foundations were laid by the Hittites around 1600 BCE and over the centuries, it has been expanded by various civilizations, including the Phrygians, Lydians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans. Beyond its beauty, it offers unbeatable shopping!

Starting at the lower outer ring and moving up into the inner heart of the castle, you will find everything from $3 skirts that you can wear and travel in all summer to hard-to-find kitchen goods like handmade copper pans and hand-embroidered Şile bezi dresses, antique treasures, and more! During our last visit, we only had a half-day of shopping (not nearly enough) and scored a massive rug for the Plomari home for $30(!), in addition to quite literally as many goods as we could fit in the taxi trunk! Restaurants and cafes nestle between the shops that line every street, with owners hawking their wares and showcasing their finest. Runners deliver piping hot çay on silver trays to shop owners and their customers. The whole feeling is timeless—you can imagine that fifty years in the future the kalesi will be much the same, and 150 years ago, it was full of the same energy!

Alas, we are only in Ankara for an evening this time, so no castle and no adventures! If you visit Ankara, here are some of my favorite spots:

• Ankara Kalesi (take a taxi and have them drop you at the bottom. Wear good shoes for walking and bring a hat (or buy one!) for shade!

• Armada and Arcadium for shopping (I love seeing the different fashion styles and find fantastic value, quality and design for the price points here). I have scored some gorgeous items from Yargici and a beautiful dress for a wedding we attended from Beymen.

Tips:

• Driving is crazy! Stay to the right unless you are passing and keep an eye on your rear view mirror, anyone who wants to get by you will come within an inch of your car and flash their lights repeatedly.

• There are VERY quick transitions from high speed, middle of nowhere freeway to unannounced merges into a single lane. Have your passenger keep an eye out for them!

• In the city, keep an eye out for the Kangal Shepherd Dogs that live everywhere. They respond well to a gentle honk if needed.

• Use an app like Currency Converter Calculator to have the conversions handy.